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观桥识巴黎

观桥识巴黎



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这很巴黎。


👇


观桥识巴黎


作者:Elaine Sciolino

译者:邓舒丹

校对:崔   颖

策划:崔颖 & 糖消


Knowing Paris by Its Bridges 

观桥识巴黎


Sometimes, when sleep eludes me in the dark hour before dawn, I make my way to the Pont de la Tournelle, the 400-foot bridge that links the Île Saint-Louis to Paris’s Left Bank. I plant myself at its midpoint, face west and wait. Before me is the skeletal back of Notre-Dame, shrouded in darkness.
偶尔在天亮前还睡不着时,我便去德拉托内尔桥。这座桥身长400英尺,两头连接着圣路易岛和巴黎左岸。我站在桥中央,面向西方,等待着。前方是巴黎圣母院背后的轮廓,笼罩在夜色中。

I watch as the sky moves from blue-black to deep blue velvet to soft gray, then light blue. The delicate architectural details of the cathedral gradually reveal themselves, until finally, the early morning sun bathes them in warm orange hues.
我看着天空从深蓝到天鹅绒质地的深蓝色,再到柔和的灰,最后成为淡淡的蓝。教堂精致的建筑细节逐渐显现,最后沐浴在晨曦温暖的橙色光芒中。

The back side of Notre-Dame is the creation of Eugène Emmanuel Viollet-le-Duc, the young architect in charge of the cathedral’s restoration in the 19th century. It looks nothing like the grandiose main entrance, whose hundreds of Medieval stone carvings make it one of the most recognizable images of Paris around the world.
巴黎圣母院的后面部分由维欧勒·勒·杜克设计,在19世纪,这位年轻的建筑师负责教堂的修复。它不像主入口那般宏伟壮丽。主入口凭借数以千计的中世纪石雕举世闻名,是巴黎最引人注目的景象。

The view from behind is different from what it was just a few months ago. During the great fire of April 15, 2019, the cathedral lost the spire that Viollet-le-Duc erected, and sections of the roof are hidden under protective scaffolding. But the structure still shows its splendor at night, the flat, dark silhouette of its flying buttresses visible through the trees.
背后的景象有别于几个月前。2019年4月15日,由欧维勒·勒·杜克建造的教堂尖塔在大火中烧毁了,部分教堂顶在脚手架的保护之下得以幸存。但是,夜色中的建筑依然气势恢宏,从树的间隙看得见飞扶壁平整的黑色轮廓。

I am never alone when I come here. Sitting atop a tall, stark pylon on the southeastern bank of the bridge is the 1928 statue of Sainte Geneviève, the patron saint of Paris. The fifth-century saint is portrayed as a young woman, her hands on the shoulders of a child who represents the city. During her lifetime, Geneviève predicted that Attila and his Mongol hordes would spare Paris from massacre and destruction; after she was proved right, she was heralded as the savior of Paris. These days, she looks out on the water — and perhaps down on me — like a silent protector.
来到这里,我从来不是一个人。1928年的圣吉娜维芙雕塑—巴黎的守护圣者—位于东南桥岸高高的尖塔上。这位15世纪圣者的形象是一个年轻女人,她的手放在孩子的肩膀上,后者象征着巴黎。吉娜维芙在有生之年预言阿提拉(注:匈奴王)和他的蒙古游牧部落将不会屠民毁城;后来预言成真,她被誉为巴黎的救世主。此时,她俯瞰河水,或者是在看着我—如同一个沉默的守护者。

The Seine begins to awaken at dawn. The first barges of the morning move downstream. The river police begin their patrols in fast-moving inflatable boats. The garbage trucks rumble along the quays picking up the refuse from the revelry the night before. Dogs bark. Crows caw.
黎明,塞纳河开始苏醒。早晨的第一批船只顺着下游而去。负责巡视河流的警察乘上疾驶的充气艇开始工作。垃圾车隆隆地沿着码头行驶,清理前夜狂欢留下的废物。狗吠,鸦啼。

I have found on the Pont de la Tournelle a special place and time in which to make Paris my own.
在特别的时间站在尔奈勒桥上某处特别的地方,巴黎只属于我。

All that contemplation whets my appetite, and from here, I walk along the quay on the Left Bank until I reach Le Depart Saint-Michel, a 24-hour café-brasserie. A touristy place to avoid at lunch and dinner, it is a great place for people-watching over an omelet and an espresso at early rush hour and a fitting way to savor the magic of a Seine River bridge at dawn.
所有那些思考让我胃口大增。从这里出发,沿着西岸码头一直走到西岸的Le Depart Saint-Michel,一家24小时营业的餐厅。这是一个要在午晚餐时刻避开的旅游胜地,但是对于一边在早高峰享受着煎蛋和咖啡一边观察人群来说,是个极好的地方,也适合在清晨体会一座塞纳河桥的奥妙。

Study Paris through its bridges, and you have a mosaic of the city’s history and architecture.
通过桥了解巴黎,你能同时了解这座城市的历史与建筑

There are 35 bridges crossing the eight-mile span from one end of Paris to the other, starting at the Pont National upstream to the Pont du Garigliano, the last bridge as the river moves to the sea (the number is 37 if you count the Boulevard Périphérique, the utilitarian highway that rings the city and crosses the river upstream at Charenton/Bercy and downstream at Saint-Cloud/Issy).
从巴黎的一端到另一端,有35座桥,(纵向)长度8英里,从上游的国家桥到加利格里亚诺桥,随后河流汇入大海,因此这也是最后一座桥(如果加上the Boulevard Périphérique就是37座,这是在上游连接沙朗通和贝西,在下游连接圣克卢和伊西的环城高速公路)。

Unesco celebrates 23 of the city’s bridges in its designation of the banks of the Seine — from the Pont de Sully, near Notre-Dame Cathedral to the Pont d’Iéna, at the Eiffel Tower — as a World Heritage cultural site.
从靠近巴黎圣母院的苏利桥到埃菲尔铁塔身旁的耶拿桥,联合国教科文组织将巴黎塞纳河岸上的23座桥纳入世界文化遗址。

The bridges stretch themselves over the river as if they are posing for passers-by. Every one of them has its own story, structure, purpose and character. Four are footbridges; two carry Metro trains. Twenty-six welcome both motorists and pedestrians; three are even more ambitious, with car and pedestrian lanes and Metro or tram tracks.
桥伸展于河面上,似为路人弄姿。每座桥都有自己的故事、结构、目的和个性。4座是人行桥;2座用于公交铁路。26座桥同时欢迎驾驶者和行人;其他3座桥则更有野心,不仅有车行道、人行道,还有地铁或者电车轨道。

Indeed, there is only one way to discover the bridges of Paris: on foot. With good walking shoes, you can make it east to west, from the first to the last bridge, in a day, stopping for lunch at a riverside cafe midway.
的确,要探索巴黎的桥,唯一的方式是步行。穿上一双好的步行鞋,你可以在一天之内从东面走到西面、从第一座桥走到最后一座桥,中途停下来在河边的餐馆吃午饭。

A bridge named for Simone de Beauvoir
一座以西蒙·德·波伏娃命名的桥

I recommend starting at Paris’s newest bridge, a pedestrian span built in 2006 and named after the 20th-century feminist, novelist, and philosopher Simone de Beauvoir, slightly downstream of the Périphérique’s crossing at Charenton/Bercy. Asymmetrical and eclectic, it is an arched and suspension bridge in one; it has no pillars or visible supports, although it stretches over one of the widest stretches of the Seine.
我建议从巴黎最新的桥开始。这座步行桥建立于2006年,以20世纪女权主义者、小说家以及哲学家西蒙·德·波伏娃命名,其位置接近跨越沙朗通和贝西的环城高速的下游。这是一座拱形吊桥,桥身设计非对称,博彩众长;虽然它横跨了塞纳河最宽的河面,却没有桥柱或者可见的支撑。

The heart of Paris is still the Île de la Cité, the island in the middle of the river where Paris was created in ancient times. There, at the foot of the Hôtel de Ville (City Hall), is the Pont d’Arcole, the site of the last scene of the 2003 film “Something’s Gotta Give.” Jack Nicholson, thinking he has lost Diane Keaton, stumbles out of a restaurant near the Hôtel de Ville and onto the bridge. An accordionist plays “La vie en rose.” A tourist boat aglow in white lights cruises below him. He gets teary-eyed. It starts to snow. She arrives in a taxi to confess that she still loves him. He tells her, “If it’s true, my life just got made …. I’m 63 years old, and I’m in love — for the first time in my life.” They kiss.
巴黎的中心仍然是西岱岛,它位于河的中央,是巴黎在古代的发源地。巴黎市政厅底下是德阿尔科莱桥,这座桥是2003年电影《爱是妥协》最后一幕的拍摄地。杰克·尼科尔森以为失去了基顿,从市政厅旁边的餐厅跌跌撞撞走到桥上。一位手风琴者在演奏《玫瑰人生》。一艘光明洞彻的游船从他身下经过。他泫然欲泪。天空飘起了雪。她乘了一辆出租车赶来表露真情,她还爱着他。他对她说,“如果这是真的,我生有所…… 我63岁了,依然拥有爱情—生命中的第一次。”他们相吻。

Even the most fantastic love scenes in the movies seem plausible standing on a Parisian bridge.
在巴黎的桥上,即使是最奇妙的爱情场景看起来也合情合理。

Nearby, the Pont Saint-Louis connects the Île de la Cité and the smaller Île Saint-Louis. It is a short, unexceptional bridge, but serves as an intimate stage for musicians, especially Americans playing jazz, jugglers, actors and mime artists.
附近的圣路易桥连接着西岱岛和较小的圣路易岛。桥很短,并不引人注目,但却是音乐家,尤其是美国爵士音乐家、杂耍艺人、演员以及哑剧艺术家的重要舞台。

A half a mile west is Paris’s oldest bridge, paradoxically named the Pont-Neuf, the “new bridge” at the tip of the Île de la Cité, and more or less the center point of the Seine’s course through the city. A 17th-century triumph of design and technology, it was the first bridge in Paris to be built entirely of stone and featured pedestrian walkways. It was built without the houses that lined earlier bridges and cluttered the views. In constructing it through and on both sides of the island, Henri IV created an intimate, permanent bond between Parisians and the lifeblood of their city, the Seine.
向西半英里是巴黎最古老的桥,但却名为新桥,这座“新桥”位于西岱岛顶端,大概是西奈河在城内流域的中心。作为17世纪先进设计与科技的产儿,这是巴黎第一座完全由石头砌成的步行桥。与早先的桥不同,它周围没有排列的房屋破环景致而显杂乱。亨利四世让桥从岛的两边穿过,借此将巴黎居民和他们城市的生命之源,即塞纳河,永远地紧密结合。

This bond still exists. Behind a statue of Henri IV on the bridge are staircases that descend two flights. They open out onto a spit of land at the westernmost tip of the Île de la Cité, the Square du Vert-Galant. Unlike most Paris parks, it is open to the public all night long. When the river is high, the branches of the weeping willow planted in cobblestones at the tip of the square caress the surface of the Seine. You can come close enough to reach out and touch the water.
这种联系仍然存在。桥上亨利四世雕像背后是两段向下的阶梯。阶梯通向西岱岛最西边的一处岬角,即绿色戈蓝广场。和巴黎大多数公园不同,广场通宵向公众开放。它的最边上种着柳树,上面铺了一层鹅卵石。河水上涨时,柳枝轻拂塞纳河面。靠得足够近的话,伸出手,甚至可以碰到水面。

A quarter mile to the west, at the Louvre, is the Pont des Arts, a wood-slatted, iron pedestrian bridge that links the museum to the Institut de France, home of the Académie Française, on the other side of the river. A magnet for picnickers, it was once the place couples proclaimed their love by attaching metal padlocks. But the spindly, fragile footbridge was too weak to bear the weight of all this love. The city of Paris lined the bridge barriers with lock-resistant Plexiglas, and couples moved east to the Pont Neuf, until its barriers were replaced with corrugated plastic. But the love locks still sprout on odd spaces — between barriers on bridges, on lampposts and on heavy iron mooring rings all along the river.
向西四分之一英里是卢浮宫,艺术桥也在这儿。这是一座由木板和铁(栅栏)组成的人行桥,它连接着博物馆与河对面的法兰西学院,后者是法兰西学术院的所在地。这座桥像磁石般吸引着野营者,情侣们曾在这儿挂金属锁表达爱情。但是桥的纤弱不足以承受这所有爱的重量。巴黎将桥梁护栏换为有机玻璃,不能在上面挂锁,于是情侣们转移到东边的新桥,直到那座桥也换上了瓦楞塑料。然而,爱情锁仍然出现在奇怪的地方—桥上的护栏之间、灯柱以及河边沉重的系泊铁环之上。

Heading downstream, history buffs might like to walk over the Pont de la Concorde which joins the Place de la Concorde with the National Assembly. The bridge was built during the French Revolution using stones of the demolished Bastille, “so that the people could forever trample on the old fortress,” according to Rodolphe Perronet, the bridge’s engineer.
前往下游,历史爱好者可能有兴趣去协和桥。协和桥连接着协和广场和国会,建于法国大革命期间,用拆毁的巴士底狱石砌成,“因此人们可以永远踩在古老的堡垒之上,”协和桥建筑师罗道夫·贝罗耐说到。

The most elegant bridge in Paris
巴黎最优雅的桥

Then comes the most elegant of Paris bridges: the Pont Alexandre III, a belle epoque confection linking the Invalides to the Champs-Élysées. Built for the Paris Exposition Universelle of 1900, it was named in honor of the father of the visiting Russian czar, Nicholas II. Sculptures of full-figured, bare-breasted nymphs look out at the river from their perches at the bridge’s center. Gilded candelabra, trumpet-blowing angels, lion-taming cherubs, dolphins, starfish, sea monsters and birds proclaim joy. Faust, a nightclub, sits underneath the bridge on the Left Bank.
接下来是巴黎最优雅的桥:亚历山大三世桥——美好时代的精美建筑,连接着荣军院和香榭丽舍大街。这座桥为1900年巴黎世界博览会而建,因纪念来访的俄国沙皇尼古拉二世之父而得名。桥中央的座台上,形体圆润、裸露着乳房的仙女雕像望着河流。镀金烛台、吹着号角的天使、驯狮天使、海豚、海星、海怪以及鸟儿表现出一幅欢快雀跃的景象。桥下的左岸有一家叫福斯特的俱乐部。

belle epoque: It roughly means “Beautiful Age”. It is picked out because the standards of living and security for the upper and middle classes increased, leading to it retrospectively being labeled as a golden age compared to the humiliations that came before, and the devastation of the end which completely changes Europe’s mindset.”


The Pont Alexandre III is so emblematic of Paris that when mayor Anne Hidalgo led a campaign to promote her city as the site for the 2024 Summer Olympics, she built a 12-meter diving board on the bridge and a floating running track alongside it to stage a show of Olympic sporting events. The Eiffel Tower was strategically visible in the background for the perfect photo frame.
亚历山大三世桥是巴黎的典型象征,当安·伊达尔戈市长发起活动,致力于让巴黎成为2024年夏季奥林匹克运动会的举办地时,她在桥边建立了12米长的跳水板和漂浮赛道作为奥林匹克运动赛事的场地。凭借巧妙的设计,背后的埃菲尔铁塔恰好清晰可见,构成了一个完美的相框。

The city of Paris also spends millions of dollars every year to light up its river banks, and at night, the bridges look like bright necklaces strung across the river. They show off the two schools of lighting: the Paris school, which bathes its subjects in warm, even light, and the Lyon school, which uses small spotlights to highlight details for dramatic effect. The decorations of Pont Alexandre III are lit with the pointillism of the Lyon school. So are the arches and hanging lamps of the Pont de Bercy, the high-relief sculptures on the Pont d’Austerlitz, and the medallions on the N monograms, in honor of Napoléon III, on the Pont au Change.
巴黎每年要花费数百万美元用于照亮河岸。在夜晚,桥如同闪亮的项链串在河面上。它们展示了两种照明流派:巴黎派将物体置于温暖、均匀的光线下;里昂派则使用小型聚光灯突出细节,来表现戏剧效果。亚历山大三世桥的装饰采用里昂派的点彩风格。贝西桥的拱部和吊灯、奥斯特里茨桥的高浮雕;兑换桥上用于纪念拿破仑三世的圆雕饰画押字N均如此。

Gary Zuercher, a retired businessman and a lifelong photographer, was so passionate about the way the bridges look at night that he spent more than five years photographing them in black and white for a 190-page coffee-table book, “The Glow of Paris.” Because Paris isn’t fully dark in the summer months until about 11 p.m., he did most of his work during the winter. “I wanted to present the majesty of the Paris bridges in their most alluring setting,” he said. “Nighttime.”
加里·祖尔希是一位退休商人,毕生从事摄影。他深深地着迷于夜色中的桥,于是用了五年多的时间为桥拍摄黑白照片,做成了一本190页的咖啡桌图书,名为《巴黎之光》。因为夏天的巴黎要在晚上11点才完全进入黑夜,因而他的工作大多在冬季完成。他说,“我希望在最迷人的背景下,即夜晚,展示巴黎的庄严。”

By day, tourist boat rides on the Seine are interesting, of course, but at night, they become voyages of discovery. I take visitors on the Vedettes de Paris, a small bateau-mouche, because if we arrive early enough, we can nab a spot in the front of an upper deck. When the boat passes under the bridges, we can see how the lighting from underneath reveals the curves and angles of their underbellies.
白日在塞纳河上乘坐游船固然有趣,但是在夜晚,游览就成为了发现之旅。我带着游客乘坐小型的巴黎观光船,因为如果到得早,我们就可以占据上层甲板的前方位置。当船从桥下穿过时,我们能看见灯光下桥腹的曲线和角度。

Tour guides on the bateaux-mouches will tell you that the Pont Marie is the lovers’ bridge. The story goes that if you make a wish as the boat slips under the bridge and keep the wish secret, it will be granted. One summer night, I took two female college students for a boat ride. As we approached the bridge, a recording announced: “If you’re with the person you love, kiss him or her under the bridge, make a wish, and your wish will come true.” One of the students closed her eyes and made a wish, even though her boyfriend was an ocean away.
游船上的导游会告诉你,玛利桥是爱情桥。据说,在船经过桥时许愿,保密许愿内容,愿望就会实现。一个夏夜,我带着两个女大学生乘船游览。当我们靠近桥时,一段录音播放:“如果旁边是您的爱人,在桥下亲吻他/她,许愿,您的愿望将会成真。”其中一个学生闭上双眼许愿,即使她的男朋友远在天涯。



观桥识巴黎

  • 本文原载于 The New York Times

  • 原文链接:https://www.nytimes.com/2019/11/04/travel/paris-bridges-seine.html



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