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致命女人穿搭图鉴

致命女人穿搭图鉴



我们翻译这篇文章的理由


向大家推荐一部好剧的同时,引导人们追剧时不要只关注时尚,其实服装的背后大有学问。做一个有心人,哪怕娱乐也是学习呀!

——邓舒丹


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为什么给《致命女人》做服装设计是“服装设计师的梦想”

作者:Lindsay Weinberg 

译者:邓舒丹

校对:崔颖

策划:唐萧&邓舒丹


Janie Bryant was tasked with a “costume designer’s dream” on CBS All Access’ Why Women Kill, whose story takes place in three decades simultaneously.

珍妮•布莱恩特在CBS All Access播出的《致命女人》中担任剧集服装设计一职,该剧故事同时发生在三个不同的年代。

译者注:

CBS All Access是哥伦比亚广播公司旗下主要的流媒体平台,全称 Columbia Broadcasting System, CBS是美国三大全国性商业广播电视网之一。


Premiering on Thursday, the dramedy follows a different husband and wife in 1963, 1984 and 2019 through trials of their marriage while living in a Pasadena house. In the 1960s, Beth Ann (Ginnifer Goodwin)suspects husband Rob (Sam Jaeger) is having an affair. In the 1980s, Simone (Lucy Liu) discovers husband Karl (Jack Davenport) is gay. And in modern times, Taylor (Kirby Howell-Baptiste) and Eli (Reid Scott) reconcile with their open marriage.

于周四首播,这部剧情喜剧分别讲述了于1963年,1984年和2019年住在帕萨迪纳一处宅子里的三对夫妇所面对的婚姻考验。在六十年代,贝思•安(珍妮弗•古德温)怀疑丈夫罗伯(山姆•贾格)有婚外情。在八十年代,西蒙妮(露西•刘)发现丈夫卡尔(山姆•杰格)是个同性恋。而在现代,泰勒(柯比•豪威尔•巴蒂斯特)和伊莱(雷德•史考特)与他们的开放婚姻和解。


Bryant was excited about telling the story through three areas of fashion.

通过三种不同的时尚,布莱恩特充满激情地向我们讲述这个故事。


For the 1963 period, Bryant drew on her experience as costume designer of Mad Men in creating a mid-century style with A-line dresses for dotting housewife Beth Ann. At the beginning, her color palette is “very quiet, bland, dull and lifeless. Her character is quite modest; she is almost stuck in a time of the 1950s housewife. So she is quite meek and old-fashioned,” Bryant tells The Hollywood Reporter. She wears two strands of pearls (from Western Costume Company) in particularly every scene, paired with a beige or light olive green dress with an apron — mostly designed by Bryant and made in a tailor shop on the CBS lot. “ I love the idea of two strand, because Jackie Kennedy used to wear the two stranded pearls, and I feel like it’s just so classic,” she says.  

在1963年这一段,通过借鉴为《广告狂人》设计服装的经验,布莱恩特用A字连衣裙装饰贝思•安来打造世纪中叶风格。她的服装色调开始是“非常安静,平淡,呆板,了无生趣的。她性格比较低调,处境几乎和50年代的家庭主妇一样。因此她很顺从和传统。” 她这样跟《好莱坞报道》讲到。她几乎在每一场戏里都戴着双链珍珠项链(来自西部服装公司),搭配一件米色或者浅橄榄绿色的连衣裙,外面再系着一条围裙—- 服装造型大多由布莱恩特设计,接着由哥伦比亚广播公司旗下的服装厂制作。“我喜欢双链这个想法,因为杰奎琳•肯尼迪过去经常戴着这种珍珠项链,我觉得非常的经典”她说。

致命女人穿搭图鉴


As the season progresses, Beth Ann gets more adventurous, experimenting with a pink dress and pumps for a “breakout moment” in which she is trying something new to seduce Rob and gain confidence.The dress was vintage from Western Costume, though Bryant gave it a “facelift” and dyed some pumps hot pink to match the dress and added vintage shoe clips for a Roger Vivier effect.

随着剧情发展,贝思• 安变得更加大胆,在她尝试新的打扮风格去引诱罗伯和获得自信的“爆发时刻”,她穿了粉裙和舞鞋。这条裙子是西部服装(公司)中的经典款,但是布莱恩特给裙子做了一个“拉皮手术”,把鞋子染成了桃红色来搭配裙子,为了有一种罗杰•维威耶风格,再加了一对经典鞋夹。


The pearls are finally swapped out for a vintage jewelry set from Playclothes Vintage Fashion in Los Angeles— a two-tone purple and pink necklace with white flowers and beads and earrings to match. Bryant adds Beth Ann’s progression in the season, “Her palette does change with what’s going on in the story, and it’s kind of amazing.”

珍珠项链最终被换成了来自洛杉矶的“便装经典潮流”店里的经典珠宝套装— 装饰着白色花朵的紫色和粉红双色项链,以及配套的珠子和耳环。布莱恩特增加了贝思•安 在该季中的新元素,“她的服装色彩随着故事情节的发展发生变化,这种改变还挺精彩的。”

致命女人穿搭图鉴


Bryant relives the ‘60s again as she did for nearly a decade for Mad Men, though the styles differ in part because Why Women Kill takes place in Pasadena versus New York. “ It’s more about knowing the period. In terms of Rob, of course he is going to wear a skinny tie and he’s going to have a very classic 1960s suit. Gosh, for Mad Men, I did how many thousands and thousands of suits?” she said with a laugh.

在为《广告狂人》设计服装的近十年里,布莱恩特重度了60年代,但是,由于《致命女人》发生在在帕萨迪纳而不是纽约,两者风格会不同。“更重要的是对时代的了解。至于罗伯,当然,他要打着细窄领带,穿着60年代的经典西装。天哪,在《广告狂人》里,我设计了多少成千上万套西装?”她笑着说。


For the 1980s era of Why Women Kill, Bryant got to have a bit of fun with colors, costume jewelry, over-the-top furs and even an iconic 1980s workout scene with real vintage neon aerobics clothes, which presented a particular challenge since “elastic doesn’t last forever.”

在《致命女人》中的80年代,布莱恩特将各种色彩,人造珠宝,夸张的皮草,甚至80年代身着复古霓虹色跳操服的经典健身画面打造得别有一番风味,尤其是这跳操服带来的挑战,要知道那种“弹性材料早就没有了。

致命女人穿搭图鉴


“For Simone, she is everything that’s fabulous,” Bryant explains, “It’s all about money. She’s a woman who always is showing the world that everything is beautiful and her life is sparkling.”

“对于西蒙妮,她代表着所有完美的事物,”布莱恩特解释道,“所有一切都与金钱联系在一起。她是一个向全世界展示着所有事都特别美好,她的生活闪闪发光的女人。


The character is “definitely into couture designers” of the period, such as Saint Laurent, Christian Lacroix, Givenchy, Bill Blass and Geoffrey Beene. Elizabeth Taylor was another inspiration and, given the actress known for her jewelry collection, Simone likewise has a mega-carat collection of diamonds, emeralds, rubies, you name it (granted they’re costume jewels). “ It’s opulent— it’s diamonds, diamonds,diamonds,” Bryant says.

她“特别崇尚那个时代的时装设计师”,像伊夫•圣罗兰、克里斯汀•拉克鲁瓦、纪梵希、比尔•布拉斯、杰弗里•贝尼。伊丽莎白•泰勒也是灵感来源之一,鉴于演员自身因珠宝收藏而闻名,西蒙妮也收藏超级大克拉的钻石,祖母绿,红宝石,所有你能想得到的(不过都是人造珠宝)。“非常的华丽奢侈——钻石, 除了钻石还是钻石”布莱恩特说。

致命女人穿搭图鉴


The gems are paired with big shoulders, beaded fabrics, lots of ruffles and printed silks. In the first episode, Simone throws a party at her mansion wearing a black embellished gown designed by Bryant: “ I wanted her to be the brightest shining star in the room of her party.” Later, she wears a pink suit with white peplum detailing, which was vintage from the CBS costume shop.

各种宝石与大垫肩,镶珠织物,大量的褶边,印花真丝相搭配。第一集中,西蒙妮在自己的豪宅里举行派对,在聚会上她穿着由布莱恩特设计的黑色礼服:“我要让她成为派对上最闪亮的星。”她接着穿了一件腰间点缀着白色荷叶边的粉色套装,这件衣服也是从CBS服装店拿来的复古装。


Another stand out comes when Simone is lounging in her living room in pink silk robe uncorking a wine bottle and surrounded by “a few of my favorite things,” meaning mounds of heels and furs, some of which were from Bryant’s own vintage collection, including a red fox purchased in the  ‘80s at Neiman Marcus.

另一处夺人眼球的地方是当西蒙妮穿着粉色真丝长袍,在客厅里懒洋洋地(靠着沙发)开酒瓶的场景,她周围摆着“一些我最喜欢的东西”,像成堆高跟鞋和皮草,有的还是布莱恩特本人的古着收藏。

译者注:

在电视剧中Simone是靠在沙发上的,所以译者直接这样来处理lounge,没有直接沿用本意。

致命女人穿搭图鉴


“I really love the idea for her costume design to be about incorporating the masculine and the feminine,” Bryant says, “I really wanted to implement an edge that was more about her jewelry. [She] really possesses a lot of masculinity in her character.” That shines through in various colored metals, oversized earrings and stacked rings (from brands such as Lionette and Peggy Li) that pair with a black blouse or a certain yellow bodycon dress by Karen Millen for a contemporary look. 

“我非常喜欢她的服装那种阳刚和阴柔相互结合的风格,”布莱恩特说,“我很想增加一些锋芒来突出她的珠宝。【她】的性格很有男子气概。”这种性格在各种颜色鲜艳的金属饰品,特大号耳环,以及搭配着黑衬衣或者某件由凯伦•米伦设计,具有现代感的黄色紧身裙的指环(来自像莱昂内特,李佩琪等品牌)的映衬下熠熠生光。

致命女人穿搭图鉴




致命女人穿搭图鉴

  • 本文原载于 The Hollywood Reporter

  • 原文链接:https://www.hollywoodreporter.com/



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